Big Wednesday

´Courage is a mean with regard to fear and confidence´Aristotle

Every surfer knows the 70´s movie `Big Wednesday`, a surf life story centered around 3 Californian boys, Matt, Jack and Leroy, as they navigate life as surfers going through adolescence, friendship, alcohol and drugs, the Vietnam War, progress, marriage and death.

The climax of the film is `Big Wednesday`when the cold north swell, brings a huge swell larger than they have seen there before and they rejoin their friendship to surf together. Last Wednesday in Sri Lanka was our `Big Wednesday`, we heard the swell was coming, a swell bigger than I had experience so far since I first arrived here.

Ike my Scottish mate pulled up at my door, his mischievous grin filled the space of his helmet, I climbed on the back. Anticipation crowded our thoughts as we raced towards the beach in relative silence, would it be as big as they had predicted, the surf report gave it 5 stars. The rushing air blew through my hair, my heart beat a little faster, there comes a time in life when we have to face and overcome our deepest fears, would today be mine, is what traveled through my mind.

Arriving we watched the sets (large infrequent waves) roll in, they created a long wall of water before crashing over, sending spray high into the air, a roar of thunder and a rumble of white water stormed the shore clearing all in its path. They were right it was bigger than we had seen before, it looked both majestic and scary, my heart thumped a little harder, was I ready.

We walked along the soft wet sand, our iris focused on the power, astonished by how much it had risen since yesterday and how little was left of the beach, being attacked by the relentless ocean. Two women surfers sat watching, staring out over 'Plantations', reading themselves to paddle out, we exchanged encouragement and amazement, all wondering what would/could happen. Ike joked and laughed, though he wanted to he could not join us due to a large gash he had received yesterday, his surfboard fin leaving its mark on his forearm, a reminder of the dangers we faced even with smaller waves.

A lone surfer approached and entered the troubled water further down the shoreline, we examined his progress, he was washed sideways, unable to penetrate natures defenses and make the safety of the back-line. One of the ladies paddled out as I made my way towards Coconuts my favored break, she passed the defeated soldier as his arms gave up the fight and he returned to rest on the sand, her struggle was successful and gave me a glimmer of hope.

"Come on Gaarrrryyy" Ike´s Scottish `Sean Connery` like accent blocking my retreat, "you can do it".

My stretching lasted a little longer than normal as I fumbled with my inner emotions, gripped by self doubt, waiting for a break in the sets. The water was cool and refreshing, I paddled as hard as I could, a lull in the sets assisted my progress and I traversed the 200 meter divide to back-line relatively easily, going a little further than really necessary.

There I sat on my board in the beautiful blue sea separated from the sanctuary of the shoreline, by the thunderous waves that had commenced their bombardment of the shallow reef, turtles surface occasionally, rocks peered out here and there. The waves seemed even bigger now than they were from the soft sand where Ike readied his camera, disappearing behind the shoulders of these monsters that rushed under me roaring, `Riding Giants`came to mind. I had a renewed admiration for the surfers who could tame waves 4 or 5 times the size of what I now faced.

I took ten deep breaths, trying to expand my lungs, wondering how long I would last under water if required and using the exercise to distract my active mind, then I sang my version of an old Bob Marley number, ´Redemption Song´ the only one I know all the words too. Which I must say I´m becoming better at singing being in Sri Lanka as the locals always request you sing one song while drinking together before they blast out their own harmonies.

I paddled this and that way, wrestling between getting in position for a rid-able wave and a body crushing violent relative, who would sneak up on me when I was distracted in an ebb. I looked across and she was doing the same 100 meters to my right, after 30 minutes we were both still just surviving without catching a wave, defeat was not an option, people congregated on the beach, but no one else had made it out. Four had tried Ike informed me later, the other girl taking a bang to the face and bruising her bottom lip to purple with a stud piecing.

I spotted Ike up a tree, he was having the same problem as me, obscured from view, his camera ready to capture the moment of glory or defeat, I wished we could swap and knew he would be smiling up there, we enjoyed sharing in each others victories as much as laughing at the misadventures.

Then I looked over again and she was gone, had she caught a wave, no I heard later just cleaned out by a smiling white toothed demons, but I thought she had and that gave me an encouraging thought. Now I drifted alone only my thoughts, fears and emotions to keep me comfort, in my fight for survival. The waves continued to roll past, I would paddle in to catch one, miss it and have to rush back out again to avoid being crushed by 3 larger ones.

So much goes through your mind as time seems to stand still, wave after wave, what do I do if I catch one? What speed will I gain? The people watching from the shore what are they saying? The sunrise was wonderful would it be my last? Blue skies and the thunder of the crashing waves.

Now or never, I thought as a smaller rid-able wave approached, I paddled with all my strength, it pulled me forward, my feet shot up landing perfectly on the board, I was up and off. It was not spectacular but I was surfing, I gained speed, weaving up and down, it felt great and then it was over.

Relieved, that wasn´t so bad, I turned to paddle back out and noticed the first of what I knew would be 1 of 3 waves rumbling towards me. The memory of what happened the last time I was here and snapped a board off the side of my head, directed me back to the shore and the violent white water enveloped me shoving me back toward safety.

I knelt on the sand, happy to have survived and I had caught a wave, my smile of relief was ear to ear, forever captured in Ike´s lens as he approached to congratulate me.

Funny thing was if I had not extended my visa, this would have been the day I flew home :-)

Thanks to Ike for capturing these moments for me, all photo rights belong to him, cheers.  

Photo above was a sweet barrel the day after!!




Below is the movie trailer to Big Wednesday, check it out!!